How many of you take the time to analyze the ingredients list and formulation of your skincare products? When shopping for skincare, results and seeing a difference is often the desired goal. Choosing the right products for your skin goes beyond reading the claims and the product description. If you spend the time reading reviews or watching beauty videos, you’ll probably come across people talking about the ‘active ingredients and ‘formulation’ that make up the skin care product itself. What exactly do these terms mean and why are they equally important when it comes to product efficacy?

Let’s break it down!

WHAT ARE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN SKINCARE PRODUCTS?

In short, an active ingredient is a chemical compound in the product that is used to target a specific skin concern. They are often referred to as the “superstars” of the product. Active ingredients in most skincare products must be proven through research and testing to be effective and provide changes to the skin over time. For example, if you’re looking for a cleanser that is claimed to help treat acne, more often than not you’ll be looking for Salicylic Acid as an active ingredient to target that specific skin concern. Whereas if you’re looking for a serum to help tackle dehydration as a skin concern, you’ll want to look for Hyaluronic Acid as an active ingredient to provide hydration and lock in moisture for the skin.

Here are some common active ingredient examples that you might have come across that could help target specific skin concerns:

Acne: Salicylic Acid, Benzoyl Peroxide, Vitamin A/Retinoids, Niacinamide

Pigmentation: Retinoids, Vitamin C, Arbutin, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Kojic Acid

Rosacea& Sensitive Skin: Niacinamide, Azelaic Acid,Sulfur

Aging: Retinoids, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Hyaluronic Acid, AHAs

Dehydration: Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin E, Squalene, Ceramides, Glycerin

Now, we must note that active ingredients and their percentage strengths are very important, but it goes far beyond this –because the formulation of the product matters just as much.

WHAT IS FORMULATION IN SKINCARE AND WHY IS IT EQUALLY IMPORTANT?

A formulation of a skincare product is the combination of specific active ingredients and inactive and supporting ingredients along with different types of molecular weight and percentage strengths that work together to create the desired product. The formulation affects product absorption, stability and therefore efficacy and results. Don’t overlook inactive ingredients, they serve their purposes too! If active ingredients are the superstars of the product, inactive ingredients are the co-stars, and you need both to complete a movie. One important purpose of inactive ingredients is to enhance penetration and drive the actives to where they need to be in our skin, whether it be the epidermis or dermis.

Other functions include:

• Improves the performance of the active ingredients.
• Helps prevent microbial growth and chemical decomposition
• Enhances stability of active ingredients such as Vitamin C and Vitamin A (more sensitive to light and air)and prolongs the product shelf life
• Determines the product texture and form (serum, lotion, cream etc.)
• Improves the appearance and scent of the product